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From Moyra Smart – Across Traveler

Across Argentina organized my trip to Chile in March 2019. The first week was a surreal journey down the Carretera Austral (in a previous blog). Join me on our second week in my Trip to Torres del Paine.

Trip to Torres del Paine National Park: Take your international Fight to Santiago de Chile, fly to Punta Arenas and bus to Torres del Paine.

Trip to Torres del Paine: Getting there

Flying south from Santiago to Punta Arenas, the sun was shining & the sky brilliant blue. A window seat provided a clear view of the magnificent Andes mountain range. Snow rimmed volcanoes dotted the landscape. Glaciers made patterns as they snaked their way down from the Patagonian Icefield, spilling into lakes of varied shades of green and blue.
It was difficult to contain my excitement as I recognised our destination from above – the Torres del Paine National Park.
We landed at Punta Arenas on the Magellan Strait. With no time to explore the city we caught the regular bus to Puerto Natales situated on the desperate-sounding Last Hope Sound, Seno Ultima Esperanza.

Trip to Torres del Paine: Traveling into the park is part of the adventure

On our way to Torres del Paine the next morning, we stopped at the Monumento Natural Cueva de Milodon for a tour & history lesson. Excavation work has been permitted here where the remains of the extinct herbivorous Milodon, Giant Ground Sloth, were found in this huge cave in 1895.

Torres del Paine Trip: Monumento Natural Cueva de Milodon


Estancias with fields of grazing cows, horses, sheep, and a lone gaucho, flashed by as we continued to the Park. After entering at the eastern border ranger station, we began to see wild guanaco, rhea, a grey fox, and birds of prey.

Spectacular and inspiring Landscapes

Our first stop was at Laguna Amarga to gaze at the three Towers (Torres) with their reflection in the water. Granite spires rise vertically from the steppe, stark and naked, stripped of any life. Even the snow on neighbouring peaks loses its grip here.
These peaks are one of many separated by valleys and accessible on the 250 kms of trails that crisscross the park. Torres del Paine (Tehuelche for “blue”) is world renowned and beginning to experience a glut of trekkers. One reason is that in an area of roughly 182000 hectares one can appreciate glaciers, mountains, lakes, rivers, waterfalls, wildlife, forest and steppe. We stopped at many viewpoints to wander around. Each one awe-inspiring.

Read More: 7 Best places to Visit in Patagonia Argentina & Chile

Trip to Torres del Paine
Trip to Torres del Paine: Amazing Moments, Amazing View of the Grey Glacier
Credit: @breakingroutines


Lunch stop was at the hotel overlooking Lago Grey. A walk through a forest alive with bird song led to the beach of the lake into which Grey Glacier expires. Beyond the free-floating chunks of ice lies 270 square kilometres of glacier that slithers 28 kilometres down from the Southern Patagonian icefield. Due to accelerated climate change it has receded two kilometres in the last 30 years. Who knows how much longer it will be possible to observe this amazing phenomenon?

Torres del Paine Trip: Lodging inside the park

We were the envy of the bus passengers as the driver dropped us off at Hosteria Pehoe. This iconic hotel, on its own 5-hectare island, looks across the lake to the perfectly sculpted Cuernos del Paine. Many advertisements for the Park have a photo of this perfect spot! It is connected to the mainland by a wooden bridge.

Read More: The 5 best Hotels and Camps to Stay in Torres del Paine

Before dinner we climbed to the Mirador Condor where the condors’ nest in the cliffs. These magnificent birds, with a wingspan of 3.3meters, are a sight to behold!

Torres del Paine Trip: Mirador Cuernos

One needs at least a week to explore the park, so it was difficult to make a choice for our last day. We started from the little harbour where my friend sailed on the Pehoe catamaran to the French Valley hike and I walked the Mirador Cuernos.

Trip to Torres del Paine
Trip to Torres del Paine: Around each corner there were amazing views of glaciers, mountains, lakes, rivers and waterfalls.


Ferocious winds can blow here. There are warning signs & park rangers monitor the wind speed. It was fun to walk amongst an unperturbed guanaco herd! As a lone male kept watch on the hilltop, they ignored us. I guess we don’t look like their worst nightmare, the elusive puma, known as the ghost of the Andes. On this hike I came across the gushing Salto Grande waterfall which flows from the emerald waters of Lago Nordenskjold into Lake Pehoe. Around each corner there were amazing views of the dark granite base and peaks with light centre sedimentary rock, glaciers tumbling down, and even an avalanche. These are vivid memories of the Cuernos.
On the long walk back to our island paradise I thought about the fascination that surrounds Patagonia. It is indeed a refuge for the soul – from cluttered minds and cities.
As we headed back to the city the clouds were rolling in, drawing a curtain across the Torres.
Thank you to Across Argentina and their partners in Chile for a perfect, well organized vacation.

Make Patagonia your next destination – Read our suggested itinerary for visiting Argentina & Chile Patagonia! or contact us and we can customize a trip for you!

Clara Barciela
Founding Partner & Director Across Argentina & South America
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We believe South America is one of the most unforgettable places on earth – and we want you to help you fall in love with the continent just like we have. Born and raised in Buenos Aires, we founded Across South-America to help guests experience the ‘real’ South America – without compromising on comfort. A decade later, and Across South-America is a well-known boutique travel agency crafting outstanding vacations for couples, friends and families from all over the world. Our main point of difference is that we’re local experts. South America is our backyard. The experiences and attention to detail we can offer is one of a kind.

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